You want to measure at the fullest part of the bust, but the different cup sizes can throw the measurements off. This confuses just about everyone, even good friends who make lots of corsets. So don't feel bad. Here are a few tricks to working with this pattern.
First, always cut the corset one size smaller than the pattern size chart recommends. If you are a very large person, maybe two sizes. The fabric will stretch when laced, and this pattern does not take that into account.
Second, the cups run large. If you are a B/C cup, use the B size. If you are a D use the C size, and if you are DD or bigger you can use the D size. I have never met a person who could fit in the DD or bigger sizes, and I know some very large ladies.
Next, the bust sizes given on the bust chart are for if you cut out a "B" cup only. If you use the "C" size, then the bust is enlarged by 2", so to pick your size on the chart, subtract 2" from your full bust measure and match that to the chart. The "D" size adds 4" to the bust, so you will need to subtract 4" from your full bust measure to match to the chart. For example, to cut out a D cup for a full bust measure of 44" then you need to look on the chart at the size for 40" bust measure, and then pick one size smaller.
One last rule, is which corset shape to pick, the Silverado or the Dore. If you want to accentuate a smaller bust line, use the Silverado style. To de-emphasize a large bust, use the Dore.
Oh yeah, cut the waist and hip to your specific measures, fading in or out to the needed sizes. If you want to have a small waist, make sure the hip is cut large enough to allow the waist to pull smaller. I almost always cut the hip 1-2 sizes larger than the waist size. My personal corset is an 18B bust, 14 waist and a 20 hip. which gives me the measures of 41" bust, 29-30" waist, 43" hip. When cutting the hip larger, only add to the side and back sections. If you make the fronts bigger, the tummy will tend to stick out a little.
I know this sounds like a lot of changes, but by following these rules, I have been able to successfully fit a vast array of sizes and shapes very easily with this pattern. If you need further detail, please let me know. "
What a nice lady! She didn't design the pattern but obviously as a lot of customers who ask the same questions!